Nov 12 , 2022

Never Found

Here we are again, on our way to Hossegor, make some calls before to leave, check La Graviere forecast, good… maybe too good it will be crowded for sure…. but talking with the guys, this is the closer opportunity we have to go, not much time just 3 days in France, enough to fall in love again as always over and over.

Loaded the surf boards on the car, some food for the trip, some money, and a lot of hope… driving, driving, driving, the 12 hours on the gps got longer and longer, they turned into 14h… some pits stop, some wrong roads, as every time and at 5 am finally arrived.



 Our place was close to the Plages Des Estagnots , when we arrived we found the gate closed which forced us to pass trough trees and gardens to get by our door.


The morning after, waking up with maybe 2h sleep:

“can you hear that? Is the ocean”  between birds and silence's sound we heard the big swell pumping from the balcony… so picked up the boards and stuff, break fast and let’s go for some spots check




First stop Les Estagnots, shit, wind was on shore, wave were braking in all direction, current… so we start to drive from there to Les clues nude, same scenario.

Next… La Graviere, not working good but better, not enough... so we stopped at la nord, in alf an hour it turn out that forecast were right. Sets where start coming and the 2,8 meters waves with 14 period started to come in.

Put the wetsuit on chose the right board and paddle out in the crowded la nord… 



Amazing blu open faced lines started to come, people screaming, boards goes in all direction as blast off rocket… wipe outs, La nord was turned into a war. Despite the forecast were right, you never know how many people yo can find. Surf it’s becoming more and more popular it’s true, and once you are in the water in these kind of spots you can really realize…

After session stop by la Graviere which just started to works, “it’s big, it roars tomorrow we come to see here first…Late evening stop by a supermarket with very "gentile prices" get home eat sleep and ready for the day after… 



Day two, arrived at La Graviere after the usual spot check in the others places, La Graviere didn’t works, low tide.

So we drove to La Piste which is in Capbreton close to the Bunker, amazing scenario again crowd super crowded but what to do… not much time and fire on our ass for surfing. So let’s paddle out trying to avoid soft boards and people flying in all direction.

A nice left were rolling from the first big stone, so we surfed at least something nice and quiet big, than running for an amazing lunch with some baguette on the top fo the car outside the supermarket…

Late afternoon some of us were too tired but Federico jumped at la Graviere and he started to disappear into the green blue tube left and right!


Amazing sun sets, people living the beach, as always Hossegor it’s amazing, endless beaches and enjoy the surf the ocean the power of the nature.


Third day, check again, conditions were not good… windy, too windy so let’s go again to La Piste, after session stop by a pizzeria to test some “Italian” pizza. Cheese on the pizza no really, “can i ask without cheese please if you don’t use mozzarella”… after having a revisited pizza we go back for a fast check at La Graviere, nothing still windy. So we start searching all down Cap Breton without much success. Exhausted and a bit down, again lets go to La Graviere, ow “wind its over, waves are glassy, La Graviere it’s pumping, La Nord it’s pumping” put the wetsuits wax the board, screaming and running into water….

The rest… we let you imagine, big open faces waves in a spot, tubes in the other this is Hossegor pumping. At 7 pm we came out from the water, one of us got a little incident so we needed an emercency room, called a contact “jack we need an emergency room , which is the closest?” Bayonne 30 min far from hossegor, so drive till there immedialy.

Waiting our friend to be fixed we meet a kind of famous skater boy which landed on his elbow during an air, some weird people, and we go back to Hossegor.

The day after we left, coming back to Hossegor its always amazing…



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